Crafting Your Own Cuisine
Spaghetti Diavolo
Makes Two Servings
The bowl topped with the crumbly cheese (left) is dairy+gluten containing; the one with the “cheese “ more uniformly shaped (right) vegan+gluten free. Photo Eileen Perkins
Monthly Cookbook Review:
The Conscious Cook-Delicious Meatless Recipes
That Will Challenge the Way You Eat by Tal Ronnen
I chose this title to review, not to “challenge the way you eat”, but to support, most especially, the folks who resolved, in January, to reduce or eliminate animal products in their diets; also to help people continually challenged by their inability to consume dairy products made from the milks of animals.
If one noticed this book, in a library or store, one might actually have passed over it, thinking it wouldn’t be a helpful resource for meeting personal dietary goals. Its cover depicts a chef, appropriately dressed in his white chef coat, smiling as he garnishes a plate of fine restaurant-worthy food. Unless you are a person who routinely takes a lot of time to prepare elaborately named dishes, this image may have been off-putting… But wait a minute. Let’s give this guy a chance! This book was a best seller. He is a gifted culinary expert, who wants everyone, meat-eaters and non-meat eaters alike, to be delighted with his cuisine. I suggest that his efforts in this direction might help us find ingredients, and recipes, that support the development of our cuisines too. We all know that we do not have to swallow any cook book, whole, so to speak. We are, after all, at liberty to just pick and choose from what is offered. Let’s check this one out…
I notice, for example, there’s a recipe called “Old Bay Tofu Cakes with Pan-Roasted Summer Vegetables, Horseradish Cream, Apples and Beets”. Wow. A mouth full! I’d try it in a restaurant, but does it match my day-to-day eating style? No it doesn’t , in its entirety, at least. “Old Bay Tofu Cakes with Horseradish Cream” (read “horseradish sauce”) surely does, however.
Missing the pleasure of an umami-rich Caesar salad? Let’s check out the Caesar dressing recipe accompanying “Grilled Artichokes”. We can forgo the artichokes, if we choose, and lift the dressing out of its context to use on a salad, as a dip, or in a sandwich or wrap.
In a section of the book called, “Meet Cashew Cream”, Chef Tal introduces what he calls “the magic ingredient” for making it easy to live without dairy milk products, using only raw cashew nuts and water. He utilizes this cashew cream in some of the book’s recipes. We can use it as substitute as well, choosing between regular and thick versions. He also offers a little fancier dessert one for whipping.
In addition to interesting recipes, and supportive info for vegan eating, I like that this book contains interviews of some pioneers in plant-based cuisine. Among them, are Bob Goldberg, “The Mayo Man”, inventor of “Veganaise”; Seth Tibbot, founder of “Turtle Island Foods”, original producer of artisan quality tempeh and later “Tofurky” meat-analog products; and Yves Potvin, creator of the meat-like protein brand “Gardein”, made from vegetables and grains. I truthfully have no experience cooking with the “Gardein” line of products, since prior to looking into them here, I had the impression they were all made using wheat gluten. No so, I’ve discovered. Some are labeled gluten free! (If gluten intolerant, read labels carefully, as always) I look forward to the adventure of discovering, if these products will earn a spot in my cuisine!
This book’s index is a little weak, but there are plenty more good things to say about it, that I’m going to leave for your discovery. “The Conscious Cook” is available for loan through many area library systems.
Products to Try
•“Violife” brand, “Just like Feta”—When I first purchased this, I expected a salty, crumbly product and was surprised that the taste and texture of this non-dairy cheese was reminiscent, not of a briny Greek-style feta, but some French and Israeli fetas I’ve sampled in the past, with a subtle flavor and creamy texture. The taste becomes more complex when melted. Even though it does not tout being a source of protein, as some other non-dairy cheeses can, I enjoy using it. The label identifies “Just like Feta” as Vegan, gluten free, lactose free, soy free, and nut free.
•“Ohsawa” brand, “Ume Vinegar”—This tangy, salty seasoning is indispensable at my table. I often sprinkle it on tossed salad with a dash of olive oil for a quick dressing, It is not actually vinegar, with strong sourness, but rather, a subtly flavored brine made during the yearlong pickling of umeboshi plums, from Japanese cuisine. It is pricy, but a little goes a long way. It’s website says it’s Vegan, Raw, gluten-free and macrobiotic.
•“Earth Grown” (Aldies brand), “Mushroom Risotto Veggie Burger”—I find these patties quite tasty, and certainly convenient. Baked, they are especially crispy on the outside edges, and smooth and creamy in the center. Mushroom flavor is clearly discernable, and not over-powered by the flavors of other vegetables. The label identifies these patties as Vegan, cholesterol free, gluten free and a good source of fiber.
